When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.
“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.
The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.
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